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Monsoon Time: Chikmagalur, Mullayyanagiri and Charmadi

July 7, 2005

+ Also: More monsoon journeys on India Travel Blog.

Every year, monsoon rains rock India in the month of June and stay on till September. This is the only time of the year when it rains and provides a much-desired relief from the heat for everyone. These monsoon rains are also the primary source of water for all purposes – drinking water, irrigation, industrial use and anything else. Along with being a lifeline, it is also a romanticized phenomenon. People love it when it rains. The cool breeze and relief from the heat that it delivers, the smell of earth that raises with the early rains, the beauty of the droplets are all a cause of joy. The dry earth turns wet and green in the season and looks pretty. Every year, people anticipate anxiously for the rains, and celebrate when it arrives. In these days I normally spend some time around the rainforests in the Sahyadri hill ranges in South India, where it rains incessantly and the world looks picturesque. Once avoided due to constant rains, monsoon tours are now becoming a popular activity.

Also see more monsoon stories on paintedstork.com
* Hiking Brahmagiri Peak in Coorg
* Trekking on tracks – between Sakaleshpur and Subrahmanya
* Driving in the rains – Jog falls, Karwar and Kali river
* Tubing in Kaveri – some adventure and some stupidity
* Riverside picnic places around Bangalore
* An faq on monsoons
* Monsoon photo gallery

This year when the monsoons started, we decided to drive down to Chikkamgalur, a five-hour drive from Bangalore and spend some time watching the rains and trekking the hills. We packed bare minimal clothing and other requirements for a 2 day trip, and started late on a Friday evening. We reached the town too early and decided to catch some shuteye before dawn, and checked into planter’s court on Mudigere road. Planter’s court offers decent budget accommodation and I had stayed there earlier. Other options in town include small budget hotels all around, or Taj Garden Retreat on the higher side. It was around 4.30am by the time we crashed into the bed.

It was pleasantly cold and drizzling mildly in the morning. Getting out of the covers and getting ready turned out to be a difficult exercise. By the time we got ready and got moving, it was already around 9 in the morning. But outside, it hardly looked that late. Sun was hidden and every part of the sky was cloudy. There wasn’t much light and it looked as if it is early morning. Now and then it rained briefly and stopped. Although we had a few places in mind to go, we had not really planned anything for the day!

Monsoon - Girl in raincoat

At first, we went to see a small lake just outside the town, in a village called HireKolale. I hope I remember the name correctly. It started raining hard on the way. The lake was surrounded by small hills, fields and farms.

Hirekolale Lake near Chikmaglur.

It was misty and looked pretty. We strolled there for a while and worked on the next plan – to head towards Charmadi, deep in the middle of the hills.

Charmadi
Stream at the bottom of the valley

It kept raining on and off and poured heavily at times. We stayed on there till evening and headed back to our car. We were back in Chikkamagalur around 8 in the evening, and after a quick dinner crashed into the bed.

The next day was not planned too! But we figured there is no need to wake up early, since the weather remained the same all through the day – raining or cloudy. We did not get to see the sun at anytime during the two days of our trip. After a brief discussion over breakfast and coffee, we decided to head to Mullayyanagiri. Mullayyanagiri is hill located around 25kms from town, situated in the same ranges as other well-known hills – Bababudan giri and Kemmannugundi. We drove through the wet roads facing the usual intermittent rains. It started getting foggy again when we started driving up the hill. After halfway or so, visibility had reduced to almost nothing.

Fog on Mullayyanagiri
Fog on the way to Mullayyanagiri

It was raining too and the narrow road with deep valley right next to it made it a not-so-easy drive. But being used to such conditions helped. We decided to stop somewhere in the middle and walk the later part of the journey. It was so windy on the hill that we were almost carried upwards by the wind! Walking was hardly an effort. Sometimes wind made spooky and funny noises! After a short walk, we reached the top where they have a temple. Well, no surprises that one! When was the last time you climbed a hill in India and did not see a temple?!

At Mullayyanagiri
The temple compound on the top of the hill
Clouds and Sun

The foggy weather did not let us into any view of the valley below. After walking around there for a while, we headed back to town. After a brief stop in town to hill our hungry stomachs, we started our drive back. We had planned a visit to Belur temple, a beautiful historical monument on the way, but it was getting late and we could not make it before they closed it for visitors. After driving for a few hours on Mangalore – Bangalore highway, we were back in town around 11pm.

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Posted in bangalore, hills, karnataka, monsoons, sahyadri
21 Comments »
*** ROhan - July 14, 2005, 11:28 am ***

nice post and nice snaps :-)

*** TULIP - August 26, 2005, 8:06 am ***

u ve really captured nature n its beauty ………in its complete essence.good work

*** Anonymous - August 27, 2005, 3:41 pm ***

Xcellent work.Could breathe nature
through ur picturesque snaps

*** Laxman - September 23, 2005, 9:57 am ***

You enjoyed a lot, thank you very much for sharing them with us

*** kshipra - September 23, 2005, 3:41 pm ***

nice pictures and nicely written too. came across while searching the blogger for coorg as i plan to visit next weekend. any tips?

*** Anonymous - October 11, 2005, 11:37 pm ***

I am from Chickmaglore, living in New york. I just did a random search for Mudegere and saw all the beautiful pictures and loved them. I hope Chick was a good host.

*** Goli - April 25, 2006, 11:35 am ***

Awesome pics, especially the one of a kid wearing raincoat.

*** Anonymous - May 30, 2006, 10:29 am ***

Hello Friend
Fantastic writup and really really nice photos.

Thanks

*** Anonymous - June 6, 2006, 3:36 am ***

great snaps enough to tempt one to visit mullayanagiri sad you could not make it to belur we lost seeing some good snaps of that place – nandu

*** Arun - June 7, 2006, 5:57 pm ***

I did make it to Belur another time. See http://travel.paintedstork.com/blog/2005/11/architectural-splendor-belur-and.html

*** Anonymous - August 3, 2006, 10:27 am ***

Hello Friend,

Too good , tempts to visit the place!

Great photography with best script about the place

Good work!

*** Jyothi - January 18, 2007, 8:39 am ***

Fabulous…Fresh and beautiful….Thanks for sharing across a wonderful travel blog like this..

Jyothi

*** sathyendra - June 1, 2007, 8:12 am ***

Was planning a mansoon trip to kemmangundi and found your experience. Damn good and the picks are excellent. Pls share some info on kemmangundi if you have.

*** Biju - September 30, 2007, 7:52 am ***

Arun,

These are beautiful pictures! What camera did you use for these? Are you an avid photographer?

Regards,
Biju.

*** the mystic - August 19, 2008, 1:32 pm ***

Most be- a-u-tiful pictures, lovely to say the least, how i wish i could hav been there too!
and very useful writing , do u know more abt charmadi reserve forest what tourism activities or acoo is available

*** India Travel Blog » Monsoon Treat at India Travel Blog – travelogues, travel guide, places to see, hotels, bookings, flights, accommodation, packages, tours and information - May 23, 2009, 10:10 pm ***

[...] Driving to Chikkamagalur2. Hiking up the Brahmagiri peak3. Trek on the railway track to Yedakumeri4. Driving to Karwar and [...]

*** India Travel Blog » Monsoon Magic – Places to visit this rainy season – travelogues, travel guide, places to see, hotels, bookings, flights, accommodation, packages, tours and information - June 7, 2009, 5:37 pm ***

[...] Chikmaglur. Visit the hills of Bababudangiri, Mullayyanagiri and Kemmanngundi the remain covered in mist for three months. See Ayyanakere, a large lake just outside the town at the base of the tallest hill in Karnataka. Feel the wet weather of Malnad region, see its foggy hills, gushing streams the green vistas. Chikmaglur travelogue. [...]

*** India Travel Blog » Monsoons have arrived! – travelogues, travel guide, places to see and information - June 15, 2009, 5:37 pm ***

[...] Chikmagalue – Charmadi and Mullayyanagiri in the rains* Driving to Coorg in the monsoons* Driving in the rains to Jog and karwar* Riverside [...]

*** India Travel Blog » Karnataka: One State, Many Worlds – travelogues, travel guide, places to see and information - June 23, 2009, 6:34 pm ***

[...] Chikmaglur2. Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary3. Coorg4. Yedakumeri – on the train tracks5. Jog and Karwar6. [...]

*** India Travel Blog » Monsoon Stories on India Travel Blog – travelogues, travel guide, places to see and information - July 17, 2009, 6:57 pm ***

[...] Chikmagalur – Charmadi and Mullayyanagiri in the rains* Driving to Coorg in the monsoons* Driving in the rains to Jog and karwar* Riverside [...]

*** Hassan and Chikmaglur – Temples of Rock and Hills Covered Green | India Travel Blog | photography, images, travelogues, travel guide, places to see and information - February 6, 2010, 9:45 pm ***

[...] less known places nearby. While there, I made a quick visit on a morning to the verdant hills of Mullayyanagiri. The beautiful temples had intricate carvings and shapes that amazed me, and the green hills melted [...]


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