Padum to Darcha Trek in Ladakh and Zanskar Region

In the summer of 2008, I travelled extensively in Ladakh spending two memorable months in the mountain country. Then, I had quit my corporate job a few months ago and was enjoying my time seeing the country. I travelled on budget, taking public transport as much as possible and living in home-stays in the villages. At the end of my trip, I exited Ladakh by making a two day bus journey to Padum in Zanskar and then making the nine-day trek through the mountains that led me to Darcha in Himachal Pradesh. The duration of Padum to Darcha trek is reducing every year, with a new motor road in the making I maintained a journal for much part of the journey to Ladakh, including this trek. Here a detailed trek-log, much of it taken as-is from the journal.

Padum to Darcha Trek

The road to Darcha goes along Lungnak River, steadily climbing up until the river’s origin near Shingo-la Pass. We begin from Padum on an unmetalled road, under construction from the venerable Border Roads Organization. Some day, when this road is ready, the entire stretch of our trekking route will be replaced by a highway that will probably be just wide enough for a vehicle to pass. But that’s just how Himalayan Roads are. The trek-route will be defunct then, so there is a sense of urgency in doing it now.

It’s a smooth walk from Padum along the road till we reach Bardan, the next village on the way. There are a few streams breaking the path that disturb the monotony of walking on the road. At Bardan, a monastery dominates the village landscape, standing on a crag at the end of a smooth curve of the river. Beyond the monastery, the mountains plunge into a deep gorge carved by Lungnak River.

Bardan Monastery, Zanskar

Bardan Monastery and Lungnak River

Just before the arriving at monastery, I see a tiny rodent that runs pasts me into its hiding in a wall built from rocks. I wait for it to come out, keeping my camera aimed at its hole. It sure does, carefully checking out for enemies from its safety. I take a few pictures, which later help me identify it as a Himalayan Pika. A few minutes of walking later, I encounter a white rumped swallow-like bird and a red-tailed bird, neither of which I am able to name. 


Confluence of River Indus and Zanskar at Nimu, Ladakh

This photograph adorns the March page on WWF India table-top calendar. A few more images of winter in Ladakh are featured in a few other pages of the calendar.

I made this photograph during a winter visit to Ladakh in 2011. The first thing that struck my mind on seeing this landscape was that the tiny-looking building did not exist when I came here the first time, in 2008. The confluence of a beautiful blue Zanskar River with a muddy Indus surrounded by mountains all around looks beautiful, but is scarred by the new construction.

Confluence of Indus and Zanskar Rivers at Nimu, Ladakh


Categories: photos

Daily Photo: A Frozen Waterfall seen during Chadar Trek

This and a few other photographs are part of this year’s desk calendar by WWF-India.

It took us three days of walking to get to this frozen fall. Located near the village of Neraks deep in Zanskar region, it can be approached in winter months only by making a long walk on the frozen Zanskar River.

Frozen Waterfall seen during Chadar Trek

The frozen river was a regular walking route was used by people of Zanskar to connect with the outside world during winter. It is still in use by locals, and is also popular as a trekking route. The frozen river is usually referred to as ‘chadar’, and the trek is known as Chadar Trek.