From Eaglenest to Tawang – II

Travelling in the North-East in the summer of 2006
Guwahati >> Eaglenest >> Tawang >> Nameri >> Kaziranga >> Shillong >> Cherrapunjee
+Previous: From Eaglenest to Tawang – I
+Next: At Tawang Monastery
+Go to the beginning of the series

The part of the journey from Sela pass to Tawang was exciting. Soon after we crossed Sela, it was colder and we kept seeing patches of snow here and there. The valley beyond Sela was equally gorgeous as the one before – deep and wide and with great vistas.

Tawang Road
The enormous mountains and valleys of the Himalayas make us feel humble

We now started driving down into the valley, which we had to cross and climb up again to reach Tawang. The road here passed between a few pine trees here and there, small streams emerging from melting ice and military barracks now and then. We were just getting hungry after the long journey when we arrived at Jaswant Garh.

Jaswant Garh is a place out of nowhere. It hosts a monument to Jaswant Singh, an army man who is known to have single handedly tackled an enemy Battalion during Chinese occupation of Arunachal. We stopped to take a look at the monument and walked around a bit. Army has a small snack shop near the monument where we had a cup of much needed coffee before moving ahead.

Yak
A Yak looks at us with curiosity

A little more driving took us to some nice views of the valley, where we could see Tawang far away on the other side, and some habitation just below us. We stopped here for some time to rest and enjoy the views. It was later hours of the afternoon with some haze filling the valley, but the layers of mountains around us still looked beautiful. The realization of the scales of the mountains and valleys of Himalayas always manage to humble the tiny bodies that are us. A few yaks(or is it dzo?) were grazing around and looked at us with keen interest.

Jung Village
The Gompa near Jung village

Jung Village
Jung village

The habitation nearby turned out to be the Buddhist village of Jung. A small Gompa with a beautiful golden colored crest stood at the entrance of the village. The place itself is a small hamlet with a few wooden huts and brick houses and little else. We stopped to take a look at the village but did not see any elders around. A bunch of enthusiastic kids were playing with a bicycle on the road, and when my friend aimed his camera at them, got all happy and excited. But another set of small kids looked confused at the camera and wondered how to react.

Children of Arunachal Pradesh
Some Children playing in the village…

Children of Arunachal Pradesh
..and some more looking at us confused

Apparently a Hindi movie named Koyla, starring Shahrukh Khan and Madhuri Dixit was shot here. There is a waterfall nearby which is now called Madhuri falls! We drove past the village and crossed the valley over a bridge. My friend wanted to take a picture of the pretty bridge, but was chased away by an army man. It seems they had four of them guarding that bridge!

On our way further, we noticed a few monasteries high on the hills and away from the motor road. Long and winding steps descended from these monasteries to the motor road, and it was easy to say that reaching there is not all that easy. Equally hard would be carrying supplies to the place. I guess they are deliberately kept farther away in a difficult to access place, which would ensure some quietness to the monks and also provide them with some physical activity.

As we drove up towards Tawang, we went past a few more villages. Many villagers were breaking stones and working on the road. It was nearly evening and some were packing off from work. A bunch of young girls flagged our Sumo, and we packed them along in our vehicle. They were high-school going girls who were using their vacation days to make some money by working on road construction. They were bubbly and enthusiastic lot – the typical feature you see with people in the Buddhist regions. Once in the vehicle, they started chattering and set our vehicle in a very enjoyable mood for the next fifteen minutes.

A girl from Arunachal Pradesh
she was full of smiles.. and full of joy..

It was already dark when we reached Tawang. We drove around the town looking for hotels and a good number of them were fully occupied. After looking around in 3-4 places, we finally found a place to settle down. It was a long journey from dawn to dusk, and an eventful one indeed.


Compilation of Posts on Eaglenest

Travelling in the North-East in the summer of 2006
Guwahati >> Eaglenest >> Tawang >> Nameri >> Kaziranga >> Shillong >> Cherrapunjee
+Go to the beginning of the series

1. Journey to Eaglenest
2. About Vacation for Conservation in Eaglenest
3. First day at Eaglenest
4. Birding and Walking in the next few days
5. Haathi Trail
6. About Eaglenest National Park


About Eaglenest National Park

Travelling in the North-East in the summer of 2006
Guwahati >> Eaglenest >> Tawang >> Nameri >> Kaziranga >> Shillong >> Cherrapunjee
+Previous: Haathi Trail
+Next: From Eaglenest to Tawang – I
+Go to the beginning of the series

Eaglenest is special because of its altitude range varying from 500m to 3200m. The varying altitude translates into rich variety of biodiversity, with different vegetation and animal life at the higher and lower altitudes. Most of the flora and fauna of the region have remained pristine and undisturbed and well isolated from external world. A jeep track passing through the park is the only means of commute within the park, unless you walk.

LOCATION

Eaglenest is located in West Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh, adjoining Sonitpur district in Assam. Tezpur is the nearest town that serves as gateway to the park. You can get to the park from two locations – via Missimari in Assam and then take the jeep track and go all the way till Tenga. Or take the Bomdila highway from Tezpur and reach Tenga to enter the park from here. Entry permits to Arunachal Pradesh is necessary.

Eaglenest National Park
Vista of Eaglenest

THINGS TO DO

Birding is the primary activity. You can also walk in the park and enjoy the immense beauty of the forest. See undisturbed evergreen forest in the lower regions and alpine forest and rhododendron vegetation in the higher regions. Eaglenest does have a population of mammals like elephants, tigers and herbivores but the thick forest makes it difficult to sight them. Birders have a treat awaiting for them in Eaglenest. The forest hosts many endangered and endemic bird species that are hard to come by anywhere else.

LOGISTICS AND ARRANGING A TRIP

There are no tourist facilities in Eaglenest. I would strongly discourage casual visitors and leisure travellers from making a trip to Eaglenest. Currently, the only way to travel to Eaglenest is with the help of the infrastructure created by Bugund tribe and Kaati Trust. See Ramana Atreya’s page on Eaglenest for more details. Once your trip has been fixed, they can arrange for your permits and other necessities.

Accommodation will be in tents and facilities are limited. Be willing to live in very basic accommodation with staple food, and be willing to walk long distances every day.

Camping at Eaglenest National Park
Our accommodation in Lama Camp

To get to Eaglenest, take a bus from Guwahati to Tezpur(5 hours). You will see many shared jeeps heading towards Bomdila in Tezpur bus stand. Catch one of them and get down at Tenga(may be four hours?). You may have to walk or hire a jeep for yourself to reach your camp(15kms) from Tenga. Tenga has a hotel with basic facilities where you stay if you need to.