Touts at Agra

Auli -> Rishikesh -> Corbett National Park -> Varanasi -> Agra

+Previous: At Taj Mahal
+Next: End of the Journey
+Go to beginning of the series

Taj Mahal is what Agra is most famous for. Touts come second, beating Agra fort, Fatepur Sikri and anything else that would interest the tourist.

Like it happens to everyone, my encounter started as soon as I got down from the train. Even before I left the platform, people came rushing, offering rides in rickshaws and taxis. I refused, but one of them got stuck to me and refused to leave. Being wary of such people, I tried getting away from him, but there seemed to be no escape. I said I knew someone here and was expecting to be picked up by someone. He left me alone but stood next to me silently. While he was there, I made a couple of calls before I decided to look for transport. People kept coming to ask if I wanted a rickshaw. Some of them looked at my big backpack and asked if I was coming from abroad.

My man waiting for me asked again – “Koi aa rahaa hai? chalen?” Is any one coming to pick you up or can I take you?

I was getting a little impatient now and shouted at him – “Just leave me alone and stop bothering me”. He simply smiled and moved a little away from me. I felt bad about being rude. After making a few more calls, I finally decided to hire him. He turned out to be a good man. He gave me a ride to Taj Ganj for a reasonable price, and we had a good conversation about Agra, things to see, places to stay, etc. He even got me to a good hotel, sans the commission that they usually get from hotels. I apologised for being rude and tipped him generously. He graciously said – “koi baat naheen saab, hamara kaam heee aisee hai,” and moved on.

Not every experience was pleasant though. I walked around Taj Mahal and was frequently asked by Rickshaw-wallahs if I wanted a ride. And they would not let me go easily when I said no. The day being Friday, Taj was closed and people approached me offering roof top views of Taj for a small fee.

Sometime that afternoon, I took a rickshaw ride to Agra Fort. The driver said he would wait for me to take me back to Taj Ganj. I told him not to wait as I would take a long time. I was in the fort more than an hour, and was surprised to see him still around when I came out. With Taj closed, Fridays are bad for business in Agra and it showed. But this time, I was the one to be rebuked by him. He offered me a ride back to Taj Ganj, but wanted to me to visit a couple of marble shops on the way. I refused.

He said, “nothing to worry sir, you don’t need to buy anything. Just visit the shop”

I had no interest to go around all the shops and was firm about my disinterest. He said again, “I will get a good commission sir, you don’t even have to buy anything, what are you to loose anyway?”.

” I don’t need anything nor do I want to visit any shops”, I said, “just take me back to Taj Ganj”.

This time I was the one to witness some rudeness. He refused to serve me and asked me to get down from the rickshaw!

The next encounter was fun. I was walking to a restaurant just a hundred meters away when a rickshaw guy came from behind and asked me if I wanted a ride. I said no.

“Tell me sir, where do you want to go? I will take you there”

“Not very far, I will walk,” I shook my head and told him.

“come sir, just give me ten rupees,” he said, “not much!”

I smiled and shook my head again. But he was not to leave me.

“okay sir, only five rupees.” And then he even came down to two rupees. By this time I was enjoying the conversation and we were both laughing. I reiterated that my destination is hardly two minutes away. He than smiled said

“you are our guest in Agra and you are walking in the sun like this. How can I let you suffer? Please come, I will drop you for no charge!”

“No, not at all,” I said, “you see, I am already about to reach the place. I just have to cross the road and go a little ahead. But thank you for the offer.” He finally relented and moved on!

To be continued…


Taj Mahal

Auli -> Rishikesh -> Corbett National Park -> Varanasi -> Agra

+Previous: About Varanasi
+Next: Touts at Agra…
+Go to beginning of the series

I took Marudhar express from Varanasi and arrived at Agra next morning. I checked into one of the hotels in Taj Ganj area which was just 5-minute walk from Taj Mahal. I had arrived on a Friday, when Taj Mahal remains closed and Agra was devoid of it’s tourist crowd. But not to worry, I had another day in Agra when I could take a look at the world-famous monument.

So I decided to walk around Taj Mahal and rest of the town. The region around Taj is green and well maintained. In fact it is such a thick forest that I happened to notice some jungle birds like the Rufous Treepie and Indian Grey Hornbill. After wandering around for a while, I decided to take a look at the Agra Fort.

Agra Fort
Agra fort

As I arrived at the fort, a guide approached me asking if I needed his help. I wasn’t keen on a guide, but when he downed his rate to half of his initial quote of Rs.200, I decided to hire him. It was well worth getting his services.

Agra Fort
Inside Agra fort

As I went around the fort, I could not help but wonder at the plush lives of the Mughal sultans. Marbles were used at every possible place and they were carved and finished to a good taste.

Taj Mahal
Taj Mahal and Yamuna, seen from Agra Fort

Taj Mahal at distance looked wonderful from the fort, with Yamuna at the backdrop. The next morning, I woke up early and was at the gates of Taj as early as six. But there was already a big queue and a lot of people seemed to be keen to be at Taj during sunrise. As the sun comes up, Taj appears pink and slowly turns white as the sun moves up.

Taj Mahal
Taj Mahal at sunrise

I spent nearly two hour walking in and around the Taj. It was beautiful and worth its name, but somehow I found the marble work at Agra Fort more intricate and beautiful than the Taj itself.

Agra Information

Most people come to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and return, but Agra has much more to offer. Agra Fort and Fatepur Sikri are places not to be missed. A day-tripper can cover all these three places in a single day, commuting by taxi or rickshaw. But Taj Mahal is best viewed during sunrise. Keep in mind that Taj Mahal remains closed on Fridays.

Most people arrive at Agra by early morning train from Delhi. A Shatabdi leaves early for Agra, and returns back to Delhi in the evening, which makes it ideal for a day-tripper.

For budget traveller, best place to stay is in Taj Ganj area which is just behind Taj Mahal and has some budget hotels. Agra has many hotels for all budgets and finding a place to suit your type and budget should not be difficult.