Binsar and the Kumaon Himalayas – II
continued from part – I
The days at Binsar went quickly, as we did things after things, went to places after places, and when we were doing neither, stuffed ourselves to no end.
The valley where our Club Mahindra Resort was located was ideal for short aimless strolls in pine forests. We used it well. The excesses of our enthusiasm was evident when we woke up and assembled at 5 in the morning to gallivant and explore the woods. The reward – silence and fresh air of the morning, views of snow clad peak of Trishul far away, and a chance to see the dense bird population in action. Trishul, giving a dull milky appearance first that soon grows crimson in the early dawn and then to bright white. Blue magpies with their long tails, treepies with their slender bodies, scarlet minivets in dazzling orange and warblers moving swiftly from shrub to shrub. The morning walk, ending with a deliberate detour on the way back that makes us wade a stream, climb barricades and struggle through a fence to find our way back.
On the first day, the long drive to Jageshwar’s ancient temple seemed monotonous and put us to sleep. The pine trees and blue skies never seemed to end. But just when we were about to reach our destination, deodars wrested the mountains from the grip of pines. That meant thick forests, greener and cooler surroundings, a pleasing atmosphere, streams gurgling in the valley and a carpet of fresh grass on the ground. Suddenly rising now and then amidst the trees are small shrines that have stood the test of time and have probably remained there from a time much before the trees that surround them.
Jageshwar is a small village surrounded by thick deodar forest. The mud and cement houses of the village look old and worn out. Their wooden no-frills doors are painted in deep blue or red, giving a feel of a time that rest of the world has left behind.
The long drive to Jageshwar means the temple itself gets deprioritised for a cup of strong tea followed by loo break. The tea is cooked on burning wood and tastes good. But when I order for another, he makes it on LPG, citing that it will be quicker. This one doesn’t taste half as good.
An inquiry with the chai-shop owner for a guide to show us around the temple did not result in a positive response. Unlike in much visited historical locations in the plains, there are no ASI-trained guides here to tell us of the past of the locale and the build of the temples. We fall back on poorly written brochures from tourism department that describe the place in length without actually saying anything.
The temple complex is small but the structures are very impressive. There are about 125 shrines with an enclosure almost an acre in area, varying from 4 feet to 40 feet in height. Some of them are nothing more than small hollow towers with a few inches high lingam hosted in them. The elaborate ones – just a few of them – have the idols of Jageshwar, Mahamritunjaya and Pushti Devi. The towers follow Rekhanagar architecture, with four sides gently tapering as they go up, ending in a gooseberry like crown. Built by Katyuri kings as early as 8th century, Jageshwar is also speculated to be one of the twelve Jyotirlingas.
Just besides the main temple complex is another shrine dedicated to Kubera. Asking the priest to get more information on the carvings turned futile. To my question about a three-headed statue on the wall he replied in an uninterested tone – ‘that too maybe Kubera.’
Besides the beautiful temple complex, the location is scenic and serene, with a stream flowing by and deodar trees surrounding it. But unfortunately it is also infested with priests who do all that they can to catch your attention and not letting you spend your time in peace. But on the way back from there is Dandeshwar Temple, another similar but smaller complex and without the pilgrim appeal of Jyotirlinga, and allowing us to take our time exploring its domain.
There was much to do at the resort when we were not out sightseeing. The ping pong table and the small cricket pitch kept us busy, helping burn all the extra calories we added up in the restaurant. The delicious food was hard to resist. The menu usually looked like ordinary, normal Indian fair, but almost always hard to resist once begun. A fried okra dish and Malpuas remain my favourite to date and have been coming to me in dreams.
The next morning we drove to Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, an hour away. There is a remarkable change in vegetation as we enter the sanctuary, with pine forest giving way to a variety of thick trees. A dense population of rhododendron trees makes me wonder how colorful this place can be in summers. An inquiry with our driver confirms it – ‘it will be full of flowers in April/May,’ he says. The road ends a kilometer short of zero point – the highest point in the sanctuary, as well in the entire district of Almora. We are here pretty late in the day, but weather gods have been kind on us and we can still see a wide panorama of snowy peaks comprising Nanda Devi, Panchachuli and Trishul.
A few tourists walk in with a guide as we sit and relish on the views. I overhear the guide speak – ‘the tallest of the mountains that you see is Nanda Devi. It is 30km as the crow flies, but 300 by road’. He is a well-informed person and patiently helps us identify the peaks.
We go camping in the forest near the resort the next evening. It is a sort of pampered camping, not my kind of stuff. There are three young men accompanying us and attending to us all the time, pitching the tent for us, serving us food and keeping us comfortable.
Before I know, our days at Binsar are over and we are already heading back. The long journey back to Kathgodam, and then to Delhi and then Bangalore is filled with memories of days well spent in Kumaon’s mountains.
Binsar Information
Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary is 30 minutes drive from Almora. Places to see includes the zero point – the highest point in Almora district with panoramic views of the snow peaks. Seventh century Jageshwar temple is worth visiting. The lakes of Nainital, Bhimtal, Sattal and Naukuchiatal fall on the way to Binsar and are worth a detour.
The Club Mahindra property where we were invited is located 11km from Binsar on Almora-Bageshwar road. It’s in a relatively isolated valley surrounded by small villages on one side and pine forest on the other. The resort has a good campus, comfortable and spacious rooms, food that makes you drool, but lacks a swimming pool. The staff are friendly and attentive and make you feel at home.
Binsar and the Kumaon Himalayas – I : Lakes and Landscapes
A few trips to Garhwal Himalayas in the past years had pretty much convinced me that the region is as close to the heavens as it can get. When gliding down swiftly on snow-filled ski slopes of Auli, the views of Nanda Devi far away in the east and the deep ravines of Alaknanda to the north form a contrast that effectively render the scale of the mighty Himalayas into the mind. In the years after my initial rendezvous with Garhwal, I have explored the length of the Indian Himalayas on journeys that have taken me through Ladakh, Zanskar, Pir Panjal, Khangchendzonga ranges and the mountains of Arunachal. They all have awed me to no end, each of them unique and standing distinctly on their own, each peak effusing its unique character with pride.
In all these years, I was clearly aware of my itineraries keeping out Kumaon – Garhwal’s cousin to its south. The region comes with sufficient fame to its name, with the hill stations that have charmed the rulers in the days of the Raj to snowy peaks and glaciers that have attracted the adventure oriented today. Not to forget the legendary Jim Corbett who spent most of his life wandering the foothills of Kumaon with his endearment to nature and wildlife, and at the same time being saviour of the natives from the curse of man eaters. A sense of curiosity and respect for this region has always lurked in a corner of my mind, leaving a growing intent to visit and know its mountainous terrain. Milam and Pindari glaciers, Nainital and Ranikhet, the green and calm lakes of Bhimtal and Naukuchiatal, Binsar and Munsiyari are just some of the names that I have heard time and again in travel stories that have kept me fascinated. When I received an invite from Club Mahindra to visit Binsar, there was no thinking left, but to just accept.
The Lakes
Alighting Ranikhet Express in Kathgodam on the way to Binsar, it is evident that we are up to something beautiful. Foothills rise abruptly from the edge of the last train station, adorning thick greenery on their slopes. Rising peaks, dipping temperatures and pleasant wind welcome us into their territory as we drive up the hills, leaving the town and the clear waters of Golu River behind.
The first surprise greets us as we drive past a mountain pass: Bhimtal lake suddenly appears unannounced round a bend, with the road skirting the bank of the calm and green waters of the large lake. Driving round the lake and taking a short detour from the highway, we head to Naukuchiatal Lake, our first destination for the day. The largest and deepest lake in the region, it derives its name from the nine corners that confine its waters. From the edge of the lake where I stand, only few of those nine corners are visible, as the lake stretches away from me and disappears into a bend on the opposite end. Green hills surrounding the lake keep the wind at bay, letting the still waters of the lake reflect the encircling greenery. As I sit and scan the length of the lake, a loudening trotting sound makes me aware of horses running along the lake shore. I wish to be up on the back of one of them, but our stay here is brief and we have a long way to go before we get to Binsar.
Naini Lake, NainitalThe breakfast at Club Mahindra Resort on the lake shore has us replenished from the long journey from Delhi, and gets us ready for the drive ahead. Atul, the manager at the resort tells me that people go swimming in the lake, making me wish I had more time to spend here. Adding to my longing is the news of commencement of paragliding sessions only the day before we arrived.
Tourists on boats at Naini Lake, NainitalImages of Bhimtal and Naukuchiatal linger in the mind as we drive away. But nearby Nainital, which we visit on our way back is a complete contrast. Urban sprawl of the town dominates the hills around the lake. Hotels crowd the lake-shore and occupy every inch of free space available. The shrinking lake doubles up as sewage dump for the town, and its waters have gone dark and visibly polluted. But all that apart, there is an undeniable charm that pulls in crowds to Nainital’s lakeside town. Its foggy environs create an appeal, and the sail-boats and row-boats that spread along the lake surface give it an air of romance.
The Hills of Kumaon
Kosi RiverThe drive to Binsar takes us through ever-green vegetation in the lower region that gives way to pine forests and shrubbery as we go higher. A dip in temperature is apparent as we climb up. The road from Kathgodam to Almora meanders up along the bank of Kosi river (This is not the Kosi that flooded Bihar earlier this year). Its waters are clear and inviting, and is so dark green that it could very well merge into the vegetation around it. Her flow appears gentle but is deceptive. On the day we drive back from Binsar, we put ourselves to test against the flow, as we stop for lunch by a riverside restaurant and use the time to dive into river and swim against its current. Can’t think of a better way to come out refreshed.
Almora’s urban sprawl almost comes as a shock after long hours of driving in the countryside seeing green mountains and only small villages that appear along the valley once in a while. We run into urbanscapes, traffic trouble and blocked roads – things that we have been trying to run away from. But it doesn’t take long to put Almora behind and enter pine forest that stretches endlessly. The scent of pine is not apparent in this early winter but a faint perfume rises in the air once in a while. Clear blue skies, tall conifers spreading along the mountains, a carpet of green grass and meandering roads – recipe for a perfect drive. Once in a while, the road rides on the high ridges revealing deep valleys on either side and giving a feel of a high as I look below. It was six good hours on the road before we made it to Binsar.
Continued in part II
