Categories: travel photography

Snap Stories – With the elephant god

Snap Stories is a monthly column I write for a travel magazine. ‘With the elephant god’ was published in April 2014.

I frequently visit the historical town of Hampi on work. It is a large area filled with monuments—temples, mantapa and palaces. Most of the temples are in some degree of ruin today and have no deities to worship. But Virupaksha Temple, now the heart of the town, has remained intact and is the only place that sees a daily puja.

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This story is about Lakshmi, the resident elephant at the Virupaksha Temple. From my very first visit, I was charmed by this gentle giant and have spent considerable time watching and photographing her interaction with people. In most occasions, she is seen standing patiently at her stable at a corner of Virupaksha temple, blessing the curious visitors who come to see her. Most visitors are scared at first and take time to approach her. Girls giggle and push their friends ahead before following them. Boys appear daring, feeling accomplished after being blessed. Older men and women approach cautiously, reserved in their emotions but clearly unsure if it is safe to get closer. But Lakshmi treats everyone in the same way, blessing them with her trunk without betraying any of her own thoughts or emotions.

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The blessing service, however, is not free. The price of receiving her grace is a banana, a coconut or some money – usually a coin or a small bill. A ten rupee note works perfect in most occasions, but may go up to fifty with foreign travellers. Of course, the banana or coconut gets consumed immediately and the money gets transferred to the hands of the mahout.

In the morning hours, Lakshmi gets prepared by the mahout for her day with the pilgrims. She is walked to Tungabhadra River right behind the temple for a bath. Later, back at the stable, her forehead is decorated with ash and kumkum before she is ready for another day of work.

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Everytime time I make a trip to Hampi, I make sure I have some time to be in company of Lakshmi. I just sit and watch as people come and go, occasionally taking the camera out to capture the beautiful moments of interaction between the imposing pachyderm and the visitors who derive pleasure in her company. At times, spurred a desire to feel her touch and the weight of her amiable trunk on my head, I take part in this interaction and request her blessing. She blesses everyone in the same manner, lifting her trunk and gently resting it on the head, allowing the blessed to feel its weight. It has an element of tenderness and feels very unique each time.

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