Categories: culture, heritage, rajasthan

Rajasthan: More on the Havelis

Travelling in Rajasthan in February 2008
Jaipur >> Shekhawati >> Pushkar >> Jaisalmer >> Jodhpur
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Even as the locals today don’t care much about those murals on the walls of crumbling havelis, some people have woken up to the value of these treasures. A few of them are original owners who want to restore their ancestral home and showcase it to the world. Some people just fell in love with these artworks, bought the havelis from their owners and worked to restore them. The smart, enterprising types converted them to hotels.

Haveli in Mandawa, Shekhawati
A haveli converted into a hotel

Most hotels I see in Mandawa had murals donning the walls. While the one I stayed in was a new building trying to re-create the colors of the havelis, others were old structures restored and converted. People still live in some of these havelis, such as the one that belonged to merchant Gulab Rai Ladia.

Podar Haveli, Navalgarh, Shekhawati
Dr. Ramnath Podar Haveli museum

In Navalgarh, twenty minutes away from Mandawa, Podar Haveli was converted into a museum where professional guides escorted the visitors through the rooms of the haveli. In fact, there is an overdose of collected items in Podar Haveli, and each room in the haveli has some thing to display. As the guide took me from room to room showing me through the collections(some of them newly created to engage the visitors), I came back bored and tired. Fatehpur’s Nadine Le Prince Haveli was bought, and carefully restored by a French artist Nadine Le Prince. Most private museum charge upto hundred rupees or more, and the locals don’t seem to like it much. The caretaker of Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli called them with unprintable words for charging an entry fee. My guide at Podar Haveli, whom I met again on the way back to Mandawa found it incorrect to charge high entry fees to Indians. I argued that student discounts would be a good thing to have, but a private museum has the right to charge everyone else. But he did not seem convinced.

Nadine Le Prince Haveli, Fatehpur, Shekhawati
Inside Nadine Le Prince Haveli

Some well known havelis don’t have much luck with restoration though, like the Gulab Rai Ladia’s. Walking along the streets of Fatehpur, I could see many of these old structures left to rot by themselves. All around Nadine Le Prince Haveli are crumbling remains of the past with nothing more than fallen down walls few feel high.

A haveli in Shekhawati
A crumbling haveli

As I leave Shekhawati to explore more of Rajasthan, I could not help but wonder what a magical world it would have been, had all the havelis were put back to their original colours.

Continued at About Shekhawati

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