Travelling in Rajasthan in February 2008
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The murals spread densely along the walls, and it is hard to concentrate on any one – eyes keep shifting from one to next. Images of Krishna and his associates dominate most walls, surrounded by frames of various shapes and thick floral borders and designs. He is cuddling with Radha on a swing in one frame, playing with gopikas in the next, and fondly patting his herd of obedient cattle.
Paintings of Krishna are ubiquitous on the walls of Shekhawati’s havelis, but some have gone contemporary and beyond Indian mythology. Pointing at a line of railway coaches in one of the Havelis, my guide tells me that the artists were taken all the way to Mumbai to see the steam engine that was a novelty in those days. Travel stories that I read on Shekhawati tell me of many more murals – of Radha and Krishna depicted driving a car, and of Right Brothers taking off on the first ever airplane. I would like to see, but there are so many havelis dotting the sandy towns of Shekhawati that it is impossible to go in search of every one of them.
Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli
Sneh Ram Ladia’s Haveli in Madawa is my first stop on a day dedicated to Haveli hunting. The paintings here have weathered the century or so they have stood on the walls, unlike a few other I have seen on the way where the colors have faded or the plaster peeled. The caretaker of the house shows me around the sections of the haveli where the merchant-owner spent his day working, the kitchen, women’s quarters and living area, and tells me proudly that it is one of the best kept havelis.
The merchants office is a open courtyard with plenty of light and ventilation to the left of the entrance. The courtyard walls add to the official atmosphere, with paintings of important people, places and occasions. One of them, just behind the merchant’s seat is labeled “Rajput Chief’s Assembly,” displaying a row of mustachioed men in royal clothes. Next to that is a portrait of “Raja of Bilaspur(Kahlur)” who looks stout against his bodyguards who surround him. Near the corners are images of British men and women and large buildings that seem like offices.
The living quarters are on the first floor, approached through a narrow staircase. Walls here are free from officialdom and resort to the images of gods and scenes from mythology. There is Yashoda churning butter as her child watches, Krishna playing his flute, dancing with gopikas and stealing their clothes. The outer walls are have images of armies – Indian kings on elephants and horseback, and the British men standing in uniform with their rifles. There is a king on a procession sitting in his palanquin and lead by a band of musicians announcing his arrival. Portraits of Rajput gentry line the area below awnings, adorned in elaborately designed frames. Where there isn’t enough space to paint a portrait or depict a story, the walls are filled with patterns and floral designs. No corner is left unpainted.
The caretaker of Sneh Ram Shivaprasad Ladia Haveli makes his living selling antiques to tourists, and to dealers coming from cities who buy in larger numbers. He is happy to see his Haveli in a good shape and rues on the fate of many others that are crumbling.
Continued at Images – Paintings on the Havelis
Yo Arun! I know whom to consult on my next trip. I regret missing Pushkar mela this year. I don’t know how I could be so lame. Nevermind. These havelis look beautiful, the pictures n all
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Seems like you are a real specialist. Did ya study about the matter? lawl