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Skandagiri

July 14, 2008

‘I can’t believe there is such an amazing place so close to Bangalore,’ said a friend when I showed the photographs. It was getting predictable – show pictures of Skandagiri to anyone, tell them it is just 60km from Bangalore and wait for them to gasp and react with those words – ‘I can’t believe…’

A year ago I had uttered these words myself on a morning after finding pictures of Skandagiri in my mailbox. Skandagiri is a small hill that is just two hours drive from Bangalore. Earlier unknown, it came into light when a few people trekked up there and came back with amazing pictures of the hill ranges peeking through the early morning fog. In the time of internet and group emails, Skandagiri instantly became famous. People have since been going there and camping overnight to see the dramatic mornings with waves of clouds kissing the hills, and to watch the sun come up slowly amidst them. Skandagiri also has a place in history with a small fort on its top built by Tipu Sultan.

Skandagiri

I was longing to visit the place, and when a local photography group planned for a trip, jumped in without much thinking. On the next night of full moon, we packed our camping gear and drove towards Skandagiri. We had all the night at our disposal to climb up, which means we started pretty late in the night. When we assembled outside the city, had our dinner and finally reached the base of the hill, it was already midnight. Hiring a guide and starting the trek took some more time and we started only around 12.45am.

Skandagiri

Skandagiri looked deceptively small and easy to conquer from its base. ‘Two hours,’ we were told, but we brashly estimated for 45 minutes of easy walk. Our guide took us through the route that first lead to the lateral part of the mountain and then up on an easy slope. But it got steeper as we walked and we slowly started increasing the expected time to reach up. It was hardly 15 minutes of climbing when a few wanted to halt and rest. The mountain was getting the respect it deserved from us, playing the hard way. Not even five minutes of rest and our guides was herding us up threatening, saying that we will never make it in this pace before sunrise. We moved on grumblingly.

But you can’t keep a bunch of photographers on their tows for too long. It was not much time before we found a nice rocky place with wide vistas of the planes below. Full moon shone brightly in the sky with a few stars flickering here and there, and dots of light from Chikballapur town a couple of kilometers away sparkled below. A gentle breeze blew continuously and rejuvenated us from the tiresome climb. Tripods came out from the bags and cameras mounted on them, we started clicking the endless vistas below. It was nearly half an hour before the guide overpowered us and forced us to move on.

The bridle path to the peak took us through patches of boulder strewn shrub jungle with a few big trees here and there. It got steeper as we moved up. We were deceived each time when we looked up and presumed it is going to take only a few more minutes to the top. We finally made it in little more than two and a half hours, tired and hungry.

On the top of the hill is a small rocky plateau with a short wall assembled with rocks, covering the perimeter of the plateau and making up the Tipu’s fort. In the middle stands a small ancient temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha. Once at the top, strong westward wind blew relentlessly and brought the temperature down by many degrees from the place where we started. Getting into the temple was the only way to escape the wind but the temptation of the bright moonlight and views of the barely visible plains below kept us outdoors. Around 4 am we were suddenly encompassed in thick fog with hardly any visibility, when we decided to pitch our tents and make an attempt to sleep.

Skandagiri

The chill of the wind hardly allowed us to get any shuteye, and unwillingness to miss the sunrise meant we were up in no time. We woke up in the bitter cold, to see the entire world below us covered in clouds even when the altitude where we stood had a clear weather. A few summits in the distance came into view on and off as the clouds played with the wind. It was like a large pile of cotton candy spread on the earth as we looked from a height, and I wished we could float among them. When the sun came, he came up from the layer of clouds below like a small orange ball far away in the horizon. Once again cameras came out from the bags and tripods were laid out to capture those beautiful moments forever. The magic lasted for nearly thirty minutes when eventually the fog cleared to make way for a bright day. We then made our way down, still finding it hard to believe that we have a place so beautiful, so close to the city.

Information

Skandagiri is 60km from Bangalore and is located along the same range as Nandi Hills. To reach Skandagiri, drive from Bangalore to Chikballapur(55km) on NH7 where you have to turn left and drive for another 5km. The trek begins from a small temple called Papagni Matha located at Kalwarahalli village. Once you are in Chikballapur ask for directions to Papagni Matha to make sure you are not lost.

The trek to the peak is steep at sections and one needs to be reasonably fit. It takes two to three hours to get to the top depending on your fitness. You can hire guides from Kalwarahalli village at the base of Skandagiri. Forest department charges an entry fee of Rs.15 on weekends.

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Posted in bangalore, hills, karnataka
12 Comments »
*** Nyjil george - July 15, 2008, 9:18 am ***

Actually its name is Devarayan durga.

*** Anonymous - July 17, 2008, 2:46 am ***

Namskara Sir, cool pics… :o )
-anand

*** POD - July 18, 2008, 3:50 am ***

Is it the same as KalwaraBetta??

*** Nandan Jha - July 29, 2008, 9:51 am ***

Very beautiful pics.

Also the home page took quite a bit of time to load on my machine, may be its getting heavy because of pics, just a guess. It could very well be my internet connection.

*** Akira - July 30, 2008, 6:35 am ***

Now I know that the pictures I rcvd were not some email scam. Such a place does very much exist! :)

*** Kiran Chalasani - October 1, 2008, 1:00 pm ***

wowwwwwwww…. a very nice blog and a very nice place!!!!! i am gonna go to this place for sure….its so near to bangalore.!!! Thanks for sharing this info.

*** Nbhat - January 13, 2009, 10:34 am ***

As always – nice pics! and details Had a question- would it be easy to get a guide at the base or is it better to arrange in advance?

*** India Travel Blog » A Quick Visit to Nandi Hills – travelogues, travel guide, places to see and information - June 22, 2009, 8:54 am ***

[...] weather. Shot on the way to Nandi Betta. My guess is that the hill in the picture is Skandagiri. Can anyone [...]

*** Arun - July 25, 2009, 1:09 pm ***

Hey.. would anyone be able to hire guides once we reach there at around midnight? I meant to ask if there will be guides there available waiting in the middle of the night or do we have to book them in advance or of that sort?

*** Santosh Shetty - December 19, 2009, 6:23 pm ***

you can try bmcindia.org they organize night treks to Skandagiri. if they can also help you with guides if you want..

*** shashi - July 9, 2010, 11:21 am ***

you can find guide at any time…the local people there act as guides…infact u dont need to find one u will be surrounded by many of them

*** shashi - July 9, 2010, 11:23 am ***

\\\\Skandapuri///

all that day Saturday….plans were being made to go and have a trekk together….we were 11 of us…so one car and three bykes…we bought chicken which we semi cooked @ home….bought all the provisions snacks, water, maaza, then some beer and some smirnoff vodka….

then we strarted around 10:30 late night to skandagiri….actually i went asleep after half an hour in car,,,but when i woke up..we were in the middle of the road..nowhere near skandapuri…kk’s byke’s petrol has already got over once…we didn’t knew the road..no one to ask that time….totally lost
finally with the help of some locals..we got the road and reached the valley..

it was about 3 we started hiking….cold and dark…we got a guide after much of a bargain.for 300 bucks…a small boy..whom we provided apart from his fees maaza layz and cigarets(some of us smoke..big deal!?..)

the terrain was very rough,,rocky and throny…slippery due to due…each time when we ask him how long to go..that guy will say one more hour to climb…too frustating and tired….

then finally we reached the top…OMG….what a view….
@
#
$
actually no!!..we didn’t see any damn thing..it was super misty..highly windy literally it blew us away…zero visibility…and too cold…chilling…but there were lots of other people too…crazy guys like us…hugging couples..familes etc…….all our inspiration was on the chicken in our bag,,,we started a camp fire immediately..dry wood from our guide cost 150 bucks…and bingo..camp fire…

the wind made it difficult to make a decent fire for cooking chicken in oil…then Plan B,,,why not we cook the chicken in flame…so..then we did that…it was awesome…
*
*
*
then sun rise…..god is great,,,,man what a view it was…..clouds floating below us like white cotton heaps..and the wind blowing it away….with rays of sun coming out occasionally….heaven….

…

we climbed down about 8:20…and then we saw through what terrible path we went up….everyone was tired …dying tired…we slept over at every meadows and flat rocks we came across….plucked some wild berries and ate them too…..

reached ground zero @ 9:30…..


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