Information: Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal

Hampi >> Badmi >> Aihole >> Pattadakal
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Badami was once the capital of Chalukya kings who ruled major part of the Deccan from 6th to 8th century AD. The Chalukyas experimented with various architectures which evolved into formal styles over the years, and this evolution is easy to observe in Aihole and Pattadakal. Aihole and Pattadakal are said to be the only places where northern rekhanagar style of construction(similar to ones seen in Konark) and southern dravidian structures are seen together in the same place. Some structures in Aihole, built during the stages of improvement are unique and have no similars anywhere. Aihole and Pattadakal have also seen some work from Rashtrakootas in later years. Badami is known for its four cave temples that are carved in a monolith hill. River Malaprabha flows next to Aihole and Pattadakal, which is known to make these places sacred.

Aihole and Pattadakal are small villages and don’t have any accommodation. It is best to make Badami as a base to explore these places. Pattadakal is nearly 30 minutes from Badami, and Aihole another 20 more minutes.

How to reach: Badami can be accessed from Hubli, Gadag or Hospet from south, or from Bijapur in the north. Lot of people do Badami-Aihole-Pattadakal circuit along with Hampi. If you want to arrive from Hampi, take a bus to Ilkal(which is on Bijapur highway) from Hospet, and change over to Badami. Alternatively, you can go to Gadag and catch a bus to Badami. Both options should take you from 4 to 6 hours depending on how quickly you can find a bus. Don’t be fooled, Hospet might look very close to Badami in the map, but takes at least three hours even if you are driving. KSRTC buses connect Badami with Bangalore. Badami has a train station, but is connected only with local passenger trains.

Banashankari
is 5km from Badami and is connected by regular buses. Mahakoota is 12km from Badami. Buses are infrequent, but you might be able to take a shared rickshaw or hire one yourself.

If you are driving from Bangalore, take NH4(Tumkur Road) till Chitradurga, turn right before Chitradurga town and drive till Ilkal on this road via Hospet. You have to turn left at Ilkal and drive for an hour, passing many towns(there are plenty of signs) to reach Badami. It is a long drive, probably a good 500kms.


Book Review: A Hermit in the Himalayas by Paul Brunton

Book - A hermit in the Himalayas

Author: Paul Brunton
Publishers: Rider Books
Pages: 188

This book is in continuation with earlier book from Paul Brunton – ‘A Search in Secret India’, where Brunton travels around the country looking for a spiritual master. Having found one and learned from him, he sets off to isolation, now to practice.

‘A Hermit in the Himalayas’ describes Brunton’s days living in a secluded place in the mountains of Himachal Pradesh, away from rest of the world trying to meditate and learn to calm the mind. The book is mostly written like journal of his days of living in the mountains besides his reflection and attempts to meditate. He is not completely isolated from the world though, but has a servant to help him in his everyday activities, receives his letters regularly and responds to them and has some uninvited visitors, in all of which he finds things to write about, besides focusing on keeping his mind calm.

It would be difficult for the reader to perceive how one could write much sitting in a place isolated, but as one starts reading, it is evident that Brunton has enough to catch the attention. Read this as a continuation to ‘A Search in Secret India’


A Day in Aihole

Hampi >> Badmi >> Aihole >> Pattadakal
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As our shared Rickshaw made way to the edge of the village, I saw a couple of ancient temples near the road and familiar ASI-style signs. I thought of getting down there and walk further visiting the temples one after other, but I did not know how far more to go, and decided to continue to the village center. It was a kilometer ahead where the rickshaw dropped us.

It is a typical setup for a remote village turned tourist spot. There is an enclosure within which exist many ancient temples restored and managed by the ASI. And all around the enclosure are hawkers selling fruits, tender coconut and other edible stuff. A few tea shops sell some prepared food which gives you little choice, insisting you to eat what is available if you are hungry. And if you decide to have some tea(sorry, no coffee), be ready for a watery, sugary and ultra-strong concoction which can scare you off.

Durgi Temple, Aihole
Durgi Temple, Aihole

I walked into the temple complex and went around it. It is all different, completely different from any ancient structure I have seen before. Each temple is different from other and the architects have let their imagination run wild when building them. Aihole’s temples don’t seem to have parallels anywhere in South India, or for that matter, anywhere in India or may be the whole world. A temple looks like it inspired the parliament building. Another temple has an entrance that immediately leads you to a fork where you have to choose your loyalty to one of the two deities inside. There are gopuras and carvings of all kind, and some temples completely devoid of any carvings. It reminds of all the modern out-of-place glass buildings back in Bangalore that appear like they are designed for a comedy show.

Durgi Temple, Aihole
One of the experimental architecture of Aihole. The temple has entrance in the middle and two shrines

Aihole Temples
Remains of a temple complex

And no wonder, ASI is also confused in identifying these temples. My guide said most of the temples are named ad-hoc, as the deity inside were usually missing. For example, Lad Khan temple is named so because some guy called Lad Khan had lived inside that temple once; same goes with Gowda temple. Durgi gudi does not house goddess Durgi, but is called so because it is close to a compound wall or fort or ‘durga’. A temple did have a shivalinga inside but ASI insists that it was not a temple but a conference hall, and someone later installed a linga there. I smell fish in that description; did ASI cook up the story to keep it away from those who want to worship and perform pooja everyday? Every theory has some possibilities in Aihole. And then as though all the ancient experiments were not enough, ASI has tried its bit while restoring the temples, making its own poor imitations of missing pieces in the temples.

Aihole TemplesAihole Temples
ASI’s restoration attempts in Aihole. No prices for guessing which one is original

Huchhimalli Temple, Aihole
Huchhimalli Temple

Aihole is a place where architectural styles were experimented and evolved. Over centuries, people tried, tested and perfected various models which probably got filtered into a few accepted styles that are seen in Pattadakal, and were eventually perfected by Hoysalas. ASI calls Aihole(or was it some historian?) as ‘cradle of Indian architecture’. The temples date from 6th century to 15th century, with constructions from Chalukya and Rashtrakuta dynasties.

Aihole Temples
A temple Gopura in Aihole, which doesn’t affiliate to any standard architectural styles.

Aihole
A house in the village, wonder if it is continuation of experiments in architecture in contemporary period!

Durgi Gudi and Lad Khan temple are in the main complex(called the museum) which get the attention of tourist buses and noisy crowds, but there are many many more where almost no one goes to. I like the way tourism happens; when something interesting exists and left on its own, no one cares much. You put a compound wall, levy an entry fee and tell people this is supposed to be important or pretty and suddenly bus loads start coming in! I headed out in search of dozens of temples littered all over the village and saw a variety that is unseen anywhere else. It surprises me why this is not a UNESCO World Heritage Site; if there is one place that simply fascinates the most uninterested too, it is Aihole, more than any other place.

Aihole, Ravanaphadi
Ravanaphadi is one of the two cave temples

Aihole, Ravanaphadi
Inside Ravanaphadi

I several styles and experiments during my walk. There is Huchhimalli temple constructed in a ‘mature’ northern or nagar style. Ravanaphadi is a cave temple in one end of the town with some carvings of deities inside, and to the other end of the town is another cave temple which is a Jain temple. Between them lie various temples but primarily worshiping forms of Shiva. Megoti temple is a jain temple on a hillock. Some of the temples still seem to have people living in or around them. There are temples all around the village, and Aihole is unique in every manner and unpredictable to any visitor.

Aihole

Aihole
The temple complexes are well maintained and clean. There are dustbins placed in each of these temples, and they are positioned rightly in a corner and as far from the temples as possible. How-ever, I only wish they had labeled it sensibly, like ‘Use me’ or something like that!

There are so many temples in Aihole, restoration work is not yet complete and might take ages to finish. Yet, one must appreciate all the effort put by ASI on refurbishing such a large array of temples.

Continued at: Information: Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal