A Night Without Lights

When I wrote about taking some time off from writing the usual travel-logs and asked my readers what else they would to read on this page, Mridula and Mouna asked for little things interesting that happened during the journeys. Here is one to start with.

A few months ago, I made a trip to Thadiyandamol with a friend. We deliberately planned it on a weekday to avoid crowds. When we were there we figured it was indeed empty and there was just us in the peak and the forest surrounding it.

Also read – other small incidences when travelling

* An encounter with a hermit
* An encounter on the ghats
* I thought you are going to fall..
* A Struggle between fear and love
* Encounter with the pachyderms
* Ask for directions and have some coffee

We were equipped well for camping for a night, and had carried tent, food and other things we needed, and shared them between us. My friend had carried food for all the days, I had picked up the tent, etc… Previous evening, we had discussed and checked that we had everything we needed.

Come evening, we pitched our tent and were ready for the night.

My friend said: Keep the torch outside, it will be needed once it is dark.

Me: Yeah, need to keep the torch out.

Suddenly something flashed in my head.

Me: Me keep the torch out? Haven’t you got the torch?

He: No, you were supposed to get it right? You don’t have it?

Me: umm.. I thought I heard you say you have picked up the torch.

Obviously there was some mis-communication and now we had to spend a night in complete darkness. We did not see the moon anywhere in the sky either. Anyway it did not worry me much, as comforts and assurances are usually something that I don’t look for. Pretty much same with my friend. An hour or so later, we figured that both our cell phones had all the battery drained, and the last source of light is also lost! brilliant!!

Come nightfall, we were there without any light but for what is granted from the celestial sources. And it so turned out it was one of the most beautiful night I have seen in the skies and wilderness. Stars were appearing all over the place and soon they were denser than the city lights seen from an airplane. Moon’s absence added to the resplendence of the stars. Complete silence but the for gentle and pleasant breeze and the silhouette of the hills complemented the glory of the sky.

We kept conversation to the minimum, managed to eat in darkness and wondered how do we wake up early in the morning with our cell phones out of action. Lucky for us, I managed to wake up and little before six and walked out of the tent. Nature had a lot more to offer to us beyond the beauty of the starry night. The scenic beauty of Thadiyandamol in that clear weather has few parallels. It was my fourth attempt in search of this clear weather in Thadi, and I had found what I had been craving for.

Thadiyandamol
Views from Thadiyandamol in the morning


Ask for Directions… and have some coffee…

I have always been amazed and the hospitality and simple mindedness of people living in remote regions. Especially so in hilly areas. Some of the stories of friendliness that I heard in my recent trip to Himachal are nearly unbelievable. The extent of trouble that the hosts would take to ensure that their guests – even if they are strangers – is simply amazing.

My best memories of friendly people comes from the villages deep inside in the hills of malnad. On my first trip to Yedakumeri, we were wandering aimlessly and arrived at a village. We weren’t sure where we were going but had heard that there is a small fort nearby, and decided to head that way. We stopped by a house to ask for directions.

A lady came out from the house, asked what we wanted, and went back inside. The man of the house appeared in a few moments and inquired where we were coming from and where were we headed. He called us inside, explained us the way and in the meanwhile asked if we could have some tea and something to eat! He was apologetic and said they did not have milk available and can make black tea if we would not mind. Tea came in no time, and it was easily the best tea I have had yet! He kept us entertained all the time we were there, talking about their life in semi wilderness, explaining us about the region and more. There was affection and goodness in his eyes and in every word he spoke to us. He was such a delightful company.

Another time, we were driving in a muddy road in the middle of thick forest, and again we did not know where we were going. It was a narrow road going uphill and we encountered a jeep on the way, heading in the opposite direction. I was on the wheels and moved a little to the left to make way. The jeep came near us and stopped, and the man driving – Mr.Rebello, asked us where we were headed. I said we really did not know and were just exploring. He stopped and got down and explained us about the region and about a few beautiful vista points nearby we could go to. He owned a coffee estate at the end of the road, and offered us to send us one of his workers to guide us around. He was apologetic that he had to be going out of the estate on some work, but would soon be back and join us. We thanked him for the information and moved on to one of the vista points he had mentioned. An hour later, when we were just heading back, the coffee estate manager came looking for us to ensure that all is well with us and we are not lost. He guided us to Mr.Rebello’s residence, where Mr.Rebello served us amazing filter coffee and snacks. We chatted for a good one hour and his company was absolutely delighting. Just like the man we had met at Yedakumeri, Rebello was a perfect host.

I have often been a witness of such amazing hospitality in hilly regions, even to strangers. And they are so humble that they genuinely feel that it is a privilege for them to have us with them, and make us feel humbled in turn. Such company is one of the many things that make me return to the hills again and again.


Travel plans a plenty

The road looks inviting. How much of it will be covered, time alone can say.

* End of this month – Gokarna
* Some time in Nov/Dec – Karwar
* Some time in Nov/Dev – Thadiyandamol
* December – Hampi
* Jan or Feb 08 – Auli
* August or Sep 08 – Valley of Flowers and Kuari Pass or Chopta Valley
* October 08 – Gochela

I also want to squeeze in Madurai somewhere. I know, the last two are like planning too far into future. But the idea happens to be buzzing in my mind.