Book Review: Slowly Down the Ganges
Author: Eric Newby
Publishers: Picador
Pages: 298
Eric Newby’s book, documenting his journey down the Ganges in a boat is much more than just a story of adventure. Newby had to work hard to find boats to take him short distances downstream, haggle with unfriendly boatmen, and even ensure that his relationship with his wife remained in good terms. The part of enjoying the boat ride on a beautiful river seemed to take backseat over more important things most of the time.
When Newby made his grand plans to travel on the Ganges in a boat, he probably assumed it is going to be a pleasurable and enjoyable journey, or even a romantic journey since he had got his wife along. It did not take a long for him to realize the realities, which was completely devoid of any of these anticipations. Their boat ran aground more than 30 times in the first four days, and they did not even manage to cover a good hundred kilometers in this time. Having failed to find some one who could take them all the way from Haridwar to Kolkata, they had to resort to making journey in bits and pieces. While a good time was spent on the river rowing different boats downstream, they also travelled by motor boats, train, buses and even bullock carts. The last leg of the journey was completed in nothing less – a large modern vessel.
While Newby’s book focuses on the journey down the Ganges, he has adequately mixed it with details on the cities they visit en-route, such as Kanpur, Allahabad and Varanasi. He has added stories of the history and described generously about the local buildings and monuments wherever he stopped. And such places include not only larger cities but also many nondescript places like the town of Monghyr and the island of Colganj. The journey is difficult, exciting and strenuous for him in the beginning and makes an excellent read, but things get better as he moves towards West Bengal, and the last few chapters feel like nothing more than just another travellers log.
The journey was performed in the 1960s and much would have changed on the banks of Ganges since Newby has passed by, but the river continues to remain holy, mystical and mysterious. A worthy and readable book for everyone in love with the Ganges.