It must have been raining in the past few days. When we arrived in Dehradun on the early morning train, it was cold but pleasant. Air was fresh and crisp and the sight of trees of the mountains filled my eyes and my heart. It was still drizzling when we came in. A few hours later, we set forward to a short trip to Rishikesh.
See more about Rishikesh on paintedstork.com
1. Arriving at Rishikesh.
2. Walking around Laxman Jhula
3. Ganga Aarthi at Rishikesh
4. Photo Essay: Babas of Rishikesh
5. Rishikesh to Kaudiyala
6. About Rishikesh
Also see: Rishikesh photo gallery
I had made my picture of Rishikesh. I had dreamt about views of ice-tipped Himalayan mountains, Hermits seen walking around the Ganges, tonnes of pilgrims pouring into the temples, people bathing in Ganges, cold or chill weather that can’t be countered without layered clothing unless you are a Sadhu, and beautiful and scenic locales when you move out of town and so on. This had formed in me after seeing pictures of Kedar, Badri, Amarnath and such Himalayan pilgrimage places. We drove through the planes of Dehradun and reached Rishikesh in an hour. It was nothing of the sort that I imagined.
Rishikesh is a small town that separated the planes from the hills. Fiery Ganges flows in here from far and high in the Himalayas, and mellows down into a gentle and steadily flowing river. In the month of February, the waters were brownish and muddy. She flows undisturbed but for a few rafters seen flowing down with the river. We did not see any meditating Yogis on rocks abound on the banks. It is a calm place, except for the small market area in the center of the town. You don’t see large crowds of noisy pilgrims disturbing the peace of the town.
Loading rafts into a truck. Rafting is a popular activity in Rishikesh. You can see an ashram just behind the truck.
The hanging bridges – Ram Jhoola and Laxman Jhoola are the places normally visited by the casual tourist. There are a few temples near these bridges, which we did not explore. Flea markets selling clothes and woolen material, and a few restaurants crowd the streets lining around the bridges. I bought a few polished elliptical stones called ‘saligrama’. The big attraction to me was the river itself and the green hills around it forming a valley. While I found the town very beautiful and charming, there is not much that a ‘sight seeing’ tourist can expect in the town.
Colorful clothes for sale near Laxman Jhula
A temple at the backdrop of Laxman Jhula
My camera found many subjects of interest in the town. The bright and colorful clothes in the flea market were catchy. The people and the Sadhus were interesting. The market was vivid, and then there was Ganges. Our stay in Rishikesh was short before we proceeded to Joshimath. But I look forward to return here sometime.
Here is a trip report of a long journey I made 3 years ago. I dug out the trip report lying in a corner in my computer.
With my newly acquired craze for driving and our zeal to see many places, a friend and myself decided to go on a long drive and visit the hill stations of South India in February 2002. The itinerary planned was Wayanad, Munnar and Kodaikanal, and drive through Ooty. We realized later that February was not the best season to visit these places, but nevertheless had a great time in the trip.
Preparation
Since we were travelling in a car and had plenty of room available in, we took as much luggage as we could and did not bother to optimize the load. Our baggage included footwear for trekking, sleeping bags, clothes and other accessories like water bottles, etc. To keep us informed about the road, we carried maps and guidebooks. We also had Salim Ali’s ‘Book of Indian Birds’ so that we can try to track down interesting birds we see on the way.
References
We tried to do as much homework as possible before we started on the journey. Along with searching the web for information, the following resources were extensively used for gathering information.
a. India Over Land Guide and roadmap
b. Lonely Planet South India Guide
c. Rough Guide for South India
While the first one provided us with some useful maps, the latter two had fairly extensive information about every place on the road.
The Journey
We started on a Sunday afternoon from Bangalore. The plan was to reach Wayanad by sunset and stay in one of the towns – Sultan’s Battery or Kalpetta. We drove thru Mysore and Gundlupet and entered the premises of Bandipur Wildlife sanctuary early in the evening. We had to drive thru the sanctuary and cross it to reach Sultan’s Battery.
Bandipur Wildlife Sanctuary
Sun setting in Bandipur National ParkThe sanctuary, along with Muthanga wildlife sanctuary in Kerala and Madumalai forests in TamiNadu, forms the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. The area consists of thick dry and moist deciduous forests and is home for Sambars, Gaurs, Spotted Deer, A large number of elephants and some tigers. While travelling on the road passing through the forest, you can often sight some wild life if you are lucky. While approaching from Karnataka, the vegetation is dry deciduous and consists of mostly short trees and shrubs, which slowly give way to moist deciduous forest. On our way, we were lucky to spot a majestic tusker enjoying the evening, splashing itself in a man made pond. It so happened that we were travelling on a full moon day just after sunset. The serenity and silence of the forest on such an evening is best experienced than described. We also happened to spot a few deer near the road late after the sunset. Moving from Bandipur towards Kerala border and reaching Muthanga sanctuary, the trees start getting taller and greener. To the other end of the forests is Wayanad district, and the first town – Sultan’s Battery.
Wayanad district, Kerala
We stayed in a small tourist home in Sultan’s Battery. Tourism here seems to be opening up only recently unlike rest of the state. A large population of the locals are tribal, a good number of them still living in the forests. Hence it looks like clashes between the tribals and the forest department is very common. When we were there, a major war scale confrontation was reported between the two sides and more than 40 people from the forest department were held hostage by the tribals!
Chembra Peak, Kalpetta and around
Tea estate on the way to Chembra peakOur next morning’s plan was to climb the 7100 feet high Chembra peak, return back to Kalpetta and spend rest of the time in the evening sight seeing around the town. Kalpetta is another small town in Wayanad around 20kms away from Sultan’s Battery. We started early in the morning around 7am.
The foot of the hill is around 30 minutes drive from Kalpetta. You need to pass through a large tea estate on the way up. You can drive your car until half way up the peak and then start walking. We were running late and it was around 10-30 by the time we started walking. It was a very sunny day, although it was foggy early in the morning. One of the best parts of climbing Chembra peak is that you will encounter a small lake half way up on the hill. It is a great place to rest and enjoy the view of the planes below.
We took a little more than 3 hours to reach the top. It is amusing how one feels after reaching the top – there is an urge to go on conquering the next taller hill, and then the one after that and so on. The peak we climbed was the tallest one around and there is a twin peak close by which is almost as tall. Looking around from the top, it appeared like there were plenty of hills and greenery further that was worth exploring. But naturally it requires some more effort and preparation.
We reached back Kalpetta from Chembra around 4-30pm and checked into the best hotel we could find in the town. Since we had two more hours to go before dusk, we decided to explore some good places around. One thing that must be appreciated about this part of Kerala is about availability of tourist information. The tariff-card that our hotel guy gave us had everything that we wanted to know. Armed with that, and lonely planet and rough guides, it took no time for us to decide where to go – Phookot Lake. It is a beautiful naturally formed lake in the forest. It is now developed for tourism and is hence disturbed by boating, a small resort and lot of people coming in. We walked around the lake, sat there for sometime and returned back to the town around 7pm.
Our next day’s plan was to head to Munnar. After fiddling with numerous maps of Kerala and TamilNadu, we were disappointed a bit to see that there is no direct road that takes us to Munnar. We had to go far to the west to Kozhikode or far to the east to Ooty and then drive south to Munnar. Since the Ooty road was much shorter than the other one, we decided to take that. Later, we realized it was not all that a good decision.
Roads and driving in TamilNadu.
The general experience we had of driving in TamiNadu was disappointing. We often had to struggle through roads in terrible shape and sometime unreasonable toll on the roads that hardly seem to exist. I have written about the experience in my weblog.
Ooty
Waterfall near OotyOoty is probably the most famous hill station in South India. After driving through the place, I realized it is worth its fame. This is probably the only place down south where you can see some coniferous vegetation – like pine trees. Although they were once planted in the place of natural forest, now they are in big numbers and have formed self-sustainable pockets. Besides, Ooty’s temperature is known to reach as low as zero degrees and that makes the climate very suitable for these trees. The Gudalur to Ooty road is so scenic that I could not stay away for long from this place and returned here only 3 weeks later! But this time, since we did not have enough time to cover Ooty, we did not stay here and simply drove on to Munnar.
On the way to Munnar
Before we reach Munnar, we had made plans to go to Indira Gandhi national park in TamilNadu. The national park also had guesthouses inside its premises on the top of a hill, called as Top Slip. Unfortunately the park was closed for summer to prevent forest fires and we were not even allowed into the park, forget staying inside. So we ended up staying in nearby town, Pollachi.
Munnar is nearly 3 ho
urs away from Pollachi. We had to travel in hilly region and the journey was slow. The initial part of the journey was dry planes that gave way to shrubs, and as we climbed higher and higher, we saw more greenery. But sadly, there is not much forest that is left in and around Munnar. You can drive for hours and hours all around Munnar only to see tea plantations and just that. If you are there in rainy season or early before summer, you can see a few beautiful waterfalls originating from sholas. We thought of climbing one of the best looking sholas and reach for a waterfall above that, but instead just drove on to Munnar. We reached Munnar in the afternoon around 1pm.
Munnar
Tea estates of munnarMunnar is a small town. One thing unique to this place is that you can see a lot of private tourist information centers that help you around for a fee. Places to see include some natural lakes and some artificial ones formed by dams, plenty of tea estates, some hill top viewpoints and Eravikulam National Park. Anaimudi, South India’s highest summit is inside Eravikulam National Park. Our plan was to climb this peak and move on from Munnar, but unfortunately we were denied permission since it is in the core area of the national park. That was a real dampener. We were hoping to see some Nilgiri Tarhs(mountain goats) which did not happen.
With Anaimudi ruled out, we trekked around some hills and tea estates in the first day of our stay in Munnar. The next morning we took for Mattupetty dam, around 10kms away from the town. The dam forms a large artificial reservoir around the hills and looks beautiful early in the morning. You can go on from here to Top Station – a viewpoint from a hill and take the road further to Kodaikanal. While we wanted to take this route to our next rendezvous – Kodai, since the road would require a sturdy 4×4 vehicle, we decided otherwise. Instead, we returned back to Munnar and headed to Kodai on a better road.
Kodaikanal
The road to Kodai is steep and curvy, and because it is narrow, is also a dangerous. The road offers some excellent view of the planes below all the way. There is not much forest left around Kodai too. Unusual as it may seem, people here grow plantains on the slopes!(They are normally grown in planes in places where you can get plenty of water). Where you don’t see plantains you will see the natural vegetation replaced by Eucalyptus trees.
We reached Kodai early in the evening. Accommodation is cheap in Kodai if you go in off-season. Kodai is an ‘association country’. There is probably an association for every profession in town. If you walk through the main roads for a few minutes, you will find boards of many of them – like taxi driver’s association, tourist guides association, builder’s association, eucalyptus oil makers association and a lot more. I assume these associations try to control prices(and many other things) to ensure good business. You will notice that cab hiring prices are fixed, and steep even on days when they hardly seem to have any business. Tourist information is hard to come by and you will have to struggle for getting maps, guides or permissions where needed.
Once we got settled with all the info we need and a place to stay, we went to explore the Kodai Lake. The lake is surprisingly clean and beautiful, doubly so in the evening. There is a road that goes along the shore where you can walk, cycle or drive around. it was around 6-30pm when we reached the lake and it was deserted for good. We walked the entire 5kms around the lake and came back tired and ready for a good dinner, and crashed out after eating. The next morning, I drove down to the lake again, with my Camera. Since I went in early, there were not many people except for a few morning walkers and I managed to get some beautiful pics. There was not much wind and I managed to get some excellent reflections from the lake.
After breakfast, we took to PerumalMalai peak, around 12kms from the town. The climb to the peak begins at a village called Perumal Malai. We drove up to this point and started climbing at around 10am. The peak is more than 7000feet above sea level, and is a 10km walk from the base. It is a moderate climb and we took around 3 hours to reach the top. The peak offers a good view of all the four sides. We had our lunch at the top and sat there for nearly an hour or so. During the descent, we decided to go off the path, went around bushes, lost our way briefly for a while and spent some time walking around. We reached back to Kodai around 4pm.
View from Perumal Malai peakOnce in Kodai, we went to Pillar rocks, a vista point where you can see some huge pillar like formation of rocks and a view of the valley below. The place is beautiful and worth a visit. And that was pretty much the end of all our sight seeing and treks. Later on, I bought a few packs of delicious ‘home made chocolates’ that are supposed to be locally made. These chocolates are good and can be added to ‘not to be missed’ list in Kodai.
Scene at KodaikanalThat was our last day of the 6-day trip. We started back for Bangalore next morning and reached the town in the evening.
+ Also: More monsoon journeys on India Travel Blog.
Every year, monsoon rains rock India in the month of June and stay on till September. This is the only time of the year when it rains and provides a much-desired relief from the heat for everyone. These monsoon rains are also the primary source of water for all purposes – drinking water, irrigation, industrial use and anything else. Along with being a lifeline, it is also a romanticized phenomenon. People love it when it rains. The cool breeze and relief from the heat that it delivers, the smell of earth that raises with the early rains, the beauty of the droplets are all a cause of joy. The dry earth turns wet and green in the season and looks pretty. Every year, people anticipate anxiously for the rains, and celebrate when it arrives. In these days I normally spend some time around the rainforests in the Sahyadri hill ranges in South India, where it rains incessantly and the world looks picturesque. Once avoided due to constant rains, monsoon tours are now becoming a popular activity.
Also see more monsoon stories on paintedstork.com
* Hiking Brahmagiri Peak in Coorg
* Trekking on tracks – between Sakaleshpur and Subrahmanya
* Driving in the rains – Jog falls, Karwar and Kali river
* Tubing in Kaveri – some adventure and some stupidity
* Riverside picnic places around Bangalore
* An faq on monsoons
* Monsoon photo gallery
This year when the monsoons started, we decided to drive down to Chikkamgalur, a five-hour drive from Bangalore and spend some time watching the rains and trekking the hills. We packed bare minimal clothing and other requirements for a 2 day trip, and started late on a Friday evening. We reached the town too early and decided to catch some shuteye before dawn, and checked into planter’s court on Mudigere road. Planter’s court offers decent budget accommodation and I had stayed there earlier. Other options in town include small budget hotels all around, or Taj Garden Retreat on the higher side. It was around 4.30am by the time we crashed into the bed.
It was pleasantly cold and drizzling mildly in the morning. Getting out of the covers and getting ready turned out to be a difficult exercise. By the time we got ready and got moving, it was already around 9 in the morning. But outside, it hardly looked that late. Sun was hidden and every part of the sky was cloudy. There wasn’t much light and it looked as if it is early morning. Now and then it rained briefly and stopped. Although we had a few places in mind to go, we had not really planned anything for the day!
At first, we went to see a small lake just outside the town, in a village called HireKolale. I hope I remember the name correctly. It started raining hard on the way. The lake was surrounded by small hills, fields and farms.
It was misty and looked pretty. We strolled there for a while and worked on the next plan – to head towards Charmadi, deep in the middle of the hills.
Stream at the bottom of the valleyIt kept raining on and off and poured heavily at times. We stayed on there till evening and headed back to our car. We were back in Chikkamagalur around 8 in the evening, and after a quick dinner crashed into the bed.
The next day was not planned too! But we figured there is no need to wake up early, since the weather remained the same all through the day – raining or cloudy. We did not get to see the sun at anytime during the two days of our trip. After a brief discussion over breakfast and coffee, we decided to head to Mullayyanagiri. Mullayyanagiri is hill located around 25kms from town, situated in the same ranges as other well-known hills – Bababudan giri and Kemmannugundi. We drove through the wet roads facing the usual intermittent rains. It started getting foggy again when we started driving up the hill. After halfway or so, visibility had reduced to almost nothing.
Fog on the way to MullayyanagiriIt was raining too and the narrow road with deep valley right next to it made it a not-so-easy drive. But being used to such conditions helped. We decided to stop somewhere in the middle and walk the later part of the journey. It was so windy on the hill that we were almost carried upwards by the wind! Walking was hardly an effort. Sometimes wind made spooky and funny noises! After a short walk, we reached the top where they have a temple. Well, no surprises that one! When was the last time you climbed a hill in India and did not see a temple?!
The temple compound on the top of the hill
The foggy weather did not let us into any view of the valley below. After walking around there for a while, we headed back to town. After a brief stop in town to hill our hungry stomachs, we started our drive back. We had planned a visit to Belur temple, a beautiful historical monument on the way, but it was getting late and we could not make it before they closed it for visitors. After driving for a few hours on Mangalore – Bangalore highway, we were back in town around 11pm.
